Maria Smithburg, owner of landscape architecture firm, Artemesia is a favorite of PAGODA RED. When we learned of her holiday in Uruguay this past spring, we were intrigued. Here, she shares her travel diary, which has convinced us to book a ticket now. 

I always say that Uruguay is a country where nothing happens… at least in the sense that it does not make big headlines. We don’t hear about it often in the news, or see too much of it on social media. Uruguay is more like a well-kept secret. I know this intimately. Whenever people visit the country of my birth, they are quite surprised to find its hidden treasures: it’s lush, natural beauty, gorgeous beaches, distinctive wines, style and warm hospitality. Roughly the size of Arkansas, Uruguay has more cattle and sheep than inhabitants, which makes for a different kind of traffic situation entirely.

In March I escaped the dreary chill of Chicago and sojourned back to Uruguay for some relaxation and inspiration. Here is my travel diary for PAGODA RED, with a few favorite moments and reflections. From the food to the scenery, the design and the surprise finds—this trip captures what I love about Uruguay, and hopefully encourages soon-to-be-visitors to think of it the same way. —Maria Smithburg

Landscape with rolling hills

Just 80 miles from Montevideo, the capital of Uruguay, lies a seaside resort called Punta del Este. Known for its wonderful beaches, the harbor, seafood and night-life, it now has become a little crowded for people seeking a more relaxed place during the high season. Further east along the coast, a small fisherman’s village became the less commercial alternative to Punta del Este. Jose Ignacio, once a sleepy fishing village of 150 people is today considered a glamorous and chicest spot in Latin America.

Bienvenidos a Jose Ignacio

José Ignacio has kept some of its charm with dirt roads, old fashioned light posts, hand-painted street signs, art galleries and chic boutiques. Small cafes and restaurants offering simple foods cooked on the fire prevail as do French boulangeries with sweet pastries with caramel known as dulce de leche.

La Huella

One of the highlights is the now-famous Parador La Huella on the shores of Playa Brava. It is the ultimate destination for eating by the ocean with simple dishes like grilled seafood and meats, sushi, wood fire pizzas and pastas. For me, there’s no place like La Huella in the world; the relaxed ambiance, accompanied by the mojitos and the caipirinhas made with cachaça from Brazil, are my top choice for summer drinks. In the winter, the restaurant is open on weekends, and although things are quiet, the slower pace brings you close to nature, as you enjoy the fireplace warmth and the solitude of the sand dunes.

Playa VIK pool and Zaha Hadid Bench

For a beach stay, I recommend the unique Playa Vik with its strikingly contemporary look that incorporates natural elements in its design. The hotel features a “living roof” planted with wild flowers/grasses and contemporary artwork from Uruguay and beyond. This new artsy hotel was designed by Uruguayan Architect Carlos Ott who won the competition for the Paris Opera Bastille. The property is centered around the sculpture, a modernist monument in titanium and glass. The hotel has a dramatic cantilevered pool which faces the ocean and has the most beautiful sunsets in South America.

Estancia VIK view with horse in foreground

Estancia Vik, just six miles away from the beach, is a traditional Spanish colonial retreat situated on 4,000 acres. It is a country retreat in the rolling hills with a river and lakes that stretch out to the Atlantic.

Courtyard with sculptures

Barbecue room with a Jackson Pollock look

The resort features design and art works by world-renowned Uruguayan artists. The scale of the rooms and ambiance reminds me of being in someone’s private home. At the Estancia, the barbecue room looks more Jackson Pollock with its graffiti painting on the corrugated walls, reminiscent of the grit and energy of the New York subway.

The playroom was designed with leftover pieces of metal and wood from the initial construction

This unique juxtaposition of landscapes was the inspiration behind the two properties and allows guests to experience the incredible diversity of Uruguay. Playa Vik and Estancia Vik are a celebration of this majestic setting, and provides not only a unique sense of place, but gives guests an unparalleled entrée into local culture, art, design and nature. By comparing these two properties owned by the Vik Family you can understand the appeal of this area, you can enjoy the oceanfront beach as well as the farm land with Eucalyptus and Maritime Pines surrounding rolling pastures for cows and horses.

View of the vineyards

There is also a region flourishing with wine-making and olive oil production! How did this happen? This beautiful enclave has been blessed with similar topography and soil that reminds us of Tuscany 2,000 years ago, before all the little hill towns flourished with castles and agricultural pursuits.

Bodega Garzon

Bodega Garzon stands out as a sole destination in the infant wine country. This winery is only three years old and is a jewel of contemporary architecture in the middle of the countryside. You must take a look at the 100% Portland cement fermentation casks modeled after the old traditional jars from Greece (which allows for temperature control and the micro-oxygenation of wines.)

Not far away from the Bodega Garzon, lies an old town rescued from obscurity thanks to the vision of renowed Chef Francis Mallman from Buenos Aires. Garzon, a sleepy town left behind after the railroads tracks were abandoned, came back to life with the opening of his fabulous restaurant. Francis transformed the old town’s general store with its five bedrooms opening onto a porch and a courtyard surrounding a pool and a table anchored by a palm tree. All the food is cooked in an open iron grill and clay oven accompanied by homemade breads, wines, olive oils and organic produce from the local farms. The talented chef also designed the furniture and created the sophisticated ambiance of this secret spot. This little gem in the countryside is a delight to all senses.

Restaurant courtyard

Grape Arbor

Palm Tree table

 

With all the good tips, I hope to see you biking in my country next to our four-legged friends. Until then, sweet dreams!

Photos courtesy of Maria Smithburg